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Pavé Halo and Shank Engagement Ring

A couple of months back, a customer requested a ring “with diamonds everywhere”.  This was a pretty broad request and after a couple of meetings and countless quick sketches, we finally had what we all hoped was what she wanted.  The center stone weighs 1.75 carats and there is a total of approximately 0.85 carats of diamonds set in the halo and around the shank.  We delivered the ring about 3 weeks after the whole process started.  When we opened the box and showed him the ring, his jawed dropped.  They were both speechless and we got worried for a second.  Then her face lit up and she said it was beautiful beyond her imagination.


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Maintaining the Prongs on your engagement ring.

Whether your ring is made of platinum or gold, you have to remember that metal can get worn down over the years.  With regular wear, it is normal for prongs to become worn and eventually they can bend or break.  We recommend you bring your jewelry to be inspected by a professional at least once every year.  You should also periodically take a close look at your rings and make sure everything looks normal.  Although it is hard to tell in the picture below, the prongs on this particular ring were worn down to barely a tenth of a millimeter.  The ring had been worn daily for 22 years and the owner had been keeping an eye on it.  When we finally worked on the ring we were able to replace all of the prongs, essentially rebuilding a new ring.  The money spent maintaining a ring is only a fraction of what it would cost had one of the stones been lost.


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Creating a Custom Ring

Our clients often come to us with little to no idea of what they want.  Others have very definite opinions and will bring pictures from magazines they have gathered over time.  And some of our clients come to us with a sketch.  In this case, they had drawn something on a napkin and brought it along. Her idea was that she wanted to set a round stone and two smaller princess cut stones in a fairly ornate ring with diamonds running down 3 sides of the shank.  Her sketch was basically exactly what she wanted.  After our initial discussion, we created a CAD image of our understanding of her sketch (Version 1 in the image below).  She loved it but she really wanted some scroll work on the side to break up the mass of the ring and she felt the princess cuts were not big enough.  Version accomplished that but unfortunately brought the price over her budget.  After talking it over, she decided to stick with the larger side stones but could save some money by reducing the number of diamonds going down the shank by half.  We originally planned on 36 small stones and Version 3 brought that down to 18.  This turned out to look to “stubby”.  The final version added a 4th stone (on three sides on both sides of the ring) and was the winner.  This whole design process took about 3 weeks and our customer got exactly what she wished for.


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Custom Diamond Bezel Engagement Ring with a Braided Shank

Here is a ring that was actually a marriage of a couple of different styles.  Our customer wanted a round diamond but loved the squareness of a cushion cut, so we created a cushion diamond bezel around a round stone.  They also liked the braided shank on one of our stock designs.  The resulting ring has approximately 0.65 ctTW of diamonds surrounding a stunning 2 ct round diamond.


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Channel-Set Engagement Ring with Millgrain

This custom engagement ring was specifically designed to offer a flush fit to just about any wedding band.  The center stone weighs 2.25cts and there are a total of 0.6cts of mêlée diamonds on the combined set.  Notice how the under-gallery of the diamond curves back under itself in order to make room for the wedding band.


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Emerald Cut Halo Diamond Engagement Ring

Customers often send us images of multiple ring designs in which they like some details and would like to incorporate these to make something all their own.   We really enjoy doing such custom rings not only because they offer a bit of a challenge but also because we appreciate the thoughtfulness of someone who makes the extra effort to create something unique for their loved one.  Often times just a small detail can make a big difference in making something all the more special.

We recently had a customer send us a picture of a ring design his girlfriend really wanted.  The ring had a halo of diamonds around an emerald cut center stone but the diamonds around the center stone were very small and seemed out of proportion.  The ring had a lot of intricate detail under the head/halo and some extra detail, in an otherwise plain shank, which we didn’t think did much for the overall look and balance of the ring.  We decided to use slightly larger diamonds around the center stone and to eliminate the detail in the shank, keeping that part of the ring simple and drawing focus to where the center stone is.  In making those two minor modifications, it balanced the detail and proportion,  gave the ring a lot more ‘pop’ and made the ring a little extra special.

When creating a custom design like this it is always important to be sure we and the client are on the same page.  After discussing the ring details we create a 3D CAD image of the design which shows the general detail, shape and proportion of the ring.  Here are the CAD images of the custom ring discussed above:

After the customer approves the design it is then printed into a wax model, a mold is made around the wax and the metal cast into the mold.  The ring is then cleaned, pre-polished, set, polished and rhodium plated (for white gold and platinum).  All the setting details, pave beads and milgrain (beaded edging) is added by hand, during the setting process, providing a higher level of craftsmanship and finer detail.

Working together via email and phone we sent him images and information to help him make an informed and confident decision regarding the diamond.  He ultimately decided on a gorgeous emerald cut that had outstanding brilliance and shape appeal compared to the other stones we reviewed for him.

The completed ring is pictured above.


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GIA Might Develop Cut-Grade System for Fancy Shaped Diamonds.

I was reading an article by Rob Bates in JCK magazine the other day entitled “GIA Developing System to Evaluate Fancy Cuts.”  My first thought upon reading the title was that it was about time, diamantaires have known for ages what a nice fancy shape looks like.  According to Bates, the GIA is going to conduct a survey and gauge “reactions to different types of marquise, oval, and pear shapes.” Eventually, if they decide to create a grading system for fancy shapes, it will be a mix of observation and mathematical evaluations.

DiamondIdeals.com has had a cut grading system for fancy shapes for years.  It is not flawless, but serves as an excellent tool for presorting through stones.  As diamond dealers on the very active New York Diamond District, we see thousands of diamonds come across our desks every week, many of which have already been graded.  After years of experience plowing through grading reports, we have developed a system by which we can easily dismiss lesser made goods without examining them.  Our system, which assigns a cut grade to every diamond that does not have one assigned by a lab, is based on examining the proportions, polish and symmetry of each stone and how they related to each other.  Each stone is then assigned a cut grade based on all these factors.  This is not a flawless system either, but it serves a purpose and can be relied upon when trying to weed through a large selection of diamonds.

If the GIA is interested in saving lots of time and energy, they can ask to see how our system works.  I might be willing to share.


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Recycled Legacy Diamond in a Bezel Pendant

We were working with a customer on a designing a stunning engagement ring when she asked us what she could do with with her grandmother’s old ring.  The ring had seen many years of wear and tear and there was no way to save it, but as our customer was getting married soon, we suggested giving the diamond a new life.  It was not a big stone (about 0.1 carats) but it had great sentimental value.  We thought about a number of options and she finally decided on making a pendant and setting her grandmother’s stone in the middle of a bezel of new diamonds.  She wore it on her wedding day.  Something old and something new.  It was perfect.

Center stone: 0.1 carats
Diamond bezel: 0.25 carats


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Three Stone Shared-Prong Trellis Engagement Ring with Sapphires and Diamonds.

diamond and sapphire engagement ringThis is our 3-stone shared-prong trellis ring with a splash of color.  The center stone is a 1ct round diamond and each of the sapphires weigh approx 3/4 carat.  The stones are set in a platinum ring.

We have made hundreds of custom rings and most of these are set with diamonds only.  I am curious as to what people would like to see more of.  There is a growing celebrity trend of setting color stones as center stones.  Is this something you would be interested in seeing here?


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Bezel-set Diamond Engagement Ring

Bezel set diamond engagement ringThis simple yet stunning ring has a 1.25 carat diamond set in platinum.  The  smooth contour extends to every part of the ring making it wonderfully comfortable and giving it an organic feel.


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